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This machine is a combination of some of my most popular machines, it's a
general-purpose machine that does all the things as you would typically want to do
with any channel in Buzz, like stereo panning, high-quality equalizing, compression
etc. The signal path is top-down in this order:
Input gain:
Turn the volume up or down before it enters the effect.
Denoiser:
Enable / disable the denoiser part of the effect. All denoiser settings
should be adjusted using headphones!
Denoiser Amount:
The denoiser is a 3 dB/oct lowpass filter that changes it's frequency depending
on the incoming sound, to filter out white noise. The more amount the more noise
will be removed. Too high setting of this value will remove stuff like hihats etc.
and might even produce clicks.
Denoiser Brighten:
Denoising generally removes treble from the signal. To compensate, use this filter.
Denoiser Release: (advanced)
Values below 100 ms is usually best, but in certain cases, it's best to let the
lowpass filter move rather slowly to disguise the moving filter effect.
Stereo Width:
In the input has too much or too less stero, use this to control the wideness of
the stereo image. 0 = mono. This setting should be adjusted using headphones!
DeepPan:
Psycho acoustic panning! It's not just a normal left-right panning feature. This
feature also delays the signal due to the speed of sound traveling in air, to
obtain a more lively an accurate stereo image.
Note: Do not use effects like "Stereo width" or effects that blend left and right
after using the DeepPan feature. To disable DeepPan, set it to 0 (center).
This setting should be adjusted using headphones!
Temperature:
This is the closest you'll get to an equaliser with this machine. I know it's
pretty limited, but the good thing about it it that, due to it's simplicity,
it doesn't mess up the phase as much as a lot of other Buzz equalisers out there.
So you can safely use this, without losing audio quality.
Negative values: More analog "phatt bass" action! - This is what you've
all been crying for for so long! ;-)
Positive values: Gives you a more crisp and bright treble.
Highpass:
This is a high quality Chebyshew 4 pole highpass filter (24 dB/oct). It's very
useful when you want to remove unwanted subsonics from voices, bass drums etc.
while maintaining the feeling of still having a lot of bass.
Mono Frequency: (advanced)
If you're mastering your music for vinyl recording or if you're afraid your music
will act up on subwoofer HiFi sets, you can change the low frequency part of
you song to be mono. This is hardly audible, but will get rid of certain bass
related problems.
Compressor:
This enables my "jComp" compressor.
Compressor Threshold:
When the sound level rises above this level, the compressor starts reducing the
sound level.
Compressor Ratio:
This sets how much the sound level is reduced, once the threshold level has been
exceeded. The setting 1:1 is the same as not using the compressor at all.
Compressor Attack time:
When a loud sound occurs, this setting will adjust how fast the compressor will
react and turn down the volume. Low values are most effective, but will also
cause most "damage" if you use it carelessly.
Compressor Release time:
When the sound level is no longer too loud, the compressor will turn up the
volume to it's original level. How fast this happens is adjusted by the release
time.
Compressor Output gain:
Generally, this kind of compressor (called a "downwards compressor")
works by reducing the signal level. You typically want to compensate for the
lost volume using the Output gain.
Limiter Threshold:
A limiter is the same as a maximizer. This limiter is a bit more aggressive than
the well-known "Waves L1-ultra maximizer". It maintains the punchiness
better, but unfortunately it has no look-ahead.
Typical values for the limiter threshold are somewhere between 0 and -1 dB.
Limiter Release time:
Short release times gives you more power to the sound, but might give distortion.
Long release times give less distortion, but may cause pumping.
Attribute Stereo link: (advanced)
This setting enables or disables whether limiter and compressor volume changes and
denoiser filter changes are syncronised left and right, or if they are asyncronious.
Usually async mode (0) is best, because it gives you the most lively stereo image.
If you're experiencing strange stereo fluctuations, set this attribute to 1.
Attribute Denoiser algorithm: (advanced)
Denoiser mode. 2 is usually best and most powerful since it uses a 24 dB/octave
lowpass filter, but in special cases you might want to check out mode 0 (soft) or
mode 1 (special) which use less steep filters and alternative detection methods.
This plug-in can operate in both mono and stereo mode.
Plug-in written by Joachim Michaelis
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